Heirloom varieties are fruits and vegetables that were once cultivated but fell out of favor with large-scale growers because the produce neither shipped nor stored well. Many of them have superior flavor, however, and small-scale farmers have reintroduced the best varieties to farmers markets and greengrocers. Available in a wealth of sizes, flavors and colors, including yellow, orange and zebra striped, heirloom tomatoes are one of the glories of summer. Vendors at farmers markets will often offer you a taste of each type before you make a choice.
Adapted from Williams-Sonoma Collection Series, Vegetable, by Marlena Spieler (Simon & Schuster, 2002).