Mystery meats like pork roll and SPAM are making somewhat subversive inroads on inventive menus across the country, spurred on by both the quest for novelty and a nostalgic embrace of regional-American roots. Whether its the Italian classic Mortadella, the mother of all Bologna, or the standard bologna, here are just a couple of these meats that are making a revival in restaurant kitchens in unexpected ways.
According to Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite of New York Magazine, at Osteria Morini in New York chef Michael White has fashioned two chunks of Mortadella into a mini corn dog of sorts, skewered with a piece of cheese on his fritto plate; at brunch, “the Morini” combines a mortadella cutlet with two sunnyside-up eggs and truffled cream spinach.
And at no.7 in Brooklyn, and American Bistro with the feel of an old train station, Tyler Kord soaks thick slabs of Schaller & Weber bologna in a Korean-style bulgogi marinade, grills them, and stacks them with fried eggs, feta, and pickled onions on housemade “everything” rolls for brunch.
All this reading is making me hungry, plus I am snowed in and I just happen to have some mystery meat on hand. I think I’ll go fry me up an egg and some bologna on some soft white bread with a little mustard. mmmmmmm
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