Call it a re-hash. A hash revival.
That venerable, meat & potatoes put-it-all-together-in-a-pan classic, commonly known as hash, is suddenly a trendy menu choice. Says so in The New York Times, among other places.
Hash is one of those dishes I cherish from my childhood. Mom would throw together leftover pot roast with potatoes, peas, corn, onions and gravy…cook it up in a cast iron skillet…and boy, what a treat.
Well, now some of the top chefs in the U.S. are elevating its status, featuring hash prominently on their menus, as reported by Julia Moskin in the Times. It appears to be a full-on trend.
They’re making hash with corned beef (a breakfast classic and another of my personal faves), plus pastrami, Texas barbecue, leftover prime rib, lamb necks, and duck tongues. One of the beauties of hash for the home cook: you’re using foods that have already been cooked, so you just need to heat it up, add some minor embellishments, and you’re done.
With restaurant chefs, those embellishments tend to be a bit fancier. Here are some examples of the hash trend.
- At Serpentine in San Francisco meat and potatoes are combined with beets and horseradish for a “zingy, sweet and earthy” hash
- The Lazy Ox Canteen in L.A. serves lamb neck has with quinoa and a free-range jidori egg
- In Dallas, Smoke restaurant mixes shredded Texas barbecued brisket with onions and roasted green chilies, and serves it on a bed of crunchy cornbread chunks instead of potatoes
- At Northern Spy Food Company in New York’s East Village, chef Nathan Foot spikes corned beef hash with double the usual amount of pickling spices, and cooks his potatoes in oil, not water
- The French Laundry’s legendary Thomas Keller includes a hash recipe in his home-cooking cookbook
- At WAVE in Chicago chef Kristine Subido offers a maple chicken hash with Granny Smith apples, shiitake mushrooms, poached eggs, lemon aioli and rosemary
- Chef Paul Fehribach of Chicago’s Big Jones serves a sweet potato hash with their sweet tea-brined pork chop
I think my mom would be bowled over by this sudden rash of highfalutin’ hash. Me, I’m experiencing a combination of nostalgia and hunger. Gotta try some of these haute hash dishes!
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