Salt Gets a Shakeup

Salt Gets a Shakeup

Food & Drink

Salt Gets a Shakeup


By Cari Martens

The humble salt shaker appears to be in for a shakeup.

Some chefs and food enthusiasts claim that the quality of today’s basic table salt has been diminished by additives, often causing a bitter or chemical taste. The result: regional, gourmet and hand-harvested specialty salts are growing in popularity, according to a recent story by Martha C. White writing for Condé Nast’s

Chic New York restaurant Per Se offers its diners a choice of 10 different salts. Cyrus, a Sonoma wine country restaurant in Healdsburg, California, places both Maldon sea salt and pink Hawaiian salt on its tables. Another variety that’s becoming trendy is hardwood-smoked sea salt. Laurent Tourondel, owner of the BLT Restaurant Group makes his own smoked sea salt, which he uses with grilled and roasted dishes.

The Meadow, a boutique shop in Portland, Oregon, offering dark chocolates, wine, and gourmet sea salts, typically has 85-90 different kinds of salts on hand.

Gourmet salts can be quite pricey. Among the most expensive is a rare salt called amabito no moshio, a hand-cultivated Japanese salt that’s boiled off seaweed from Japan’s coastline. It can be had for a mere $8.50 an ounce.

Gives a whole new meaning to the phrase ‘worth his salt,’ doesn’t it?

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