It was just a quick stop, we told ourselves. Run in, see the place, run out. Trouble is, once in, we found it impossible to leave.

Shutters on the Beach was a wonderful mix of upper class and welcoming down-to-earth. It was as though they anticipated every need of the ocean-starved visitor and managed to accommodate it, with an array of views, comfortable seating arrangements, and a quiet staff ready to serve—but also ready to let you bask in comfort.

There are two restaurants, One Pico and Coast. We slid into One Pico at the tail end of Sunday brunch, in time to avail ourselves of cookies and spiced cider at the piano bar. We were seated and ordered a selection of appetizers just to give us a taste for more. And it did.

We recommend the grilled flatbread, which comes with your choice of Gruyere and Parma Cotta or Talleggio and Wild Mushroom spread. The Croque Monsieur Finger Sandwiches. The Maine Lobster BTLA made on brioche with bacon, tomato, lettuce and avocado. The Grilled Octopus with potatoes and capers. Even the selection of Local Lettuces served with EVOO, lemon and herbs.

But, if you can try only one thing, make it the Lobster Roll Sliders with Cottage Fries. One bite and you’ll be hooked.

Libations—which vary with the seasons—include the Shutters Snuggler, made with premium hot chocolate and peppermint liqueur, the Grapefruit Rickey made with vodka, St. Germain elderflower, grapefruit and lime juices, and club soda, and The Pacific, with Courvoisier Cognc, Blue Curacao, fresh lemon, agave nectar and a dash of bitters.

It’s a place worth more than a quick stop. With rooms facing the ocean, and more food yet to try, it’s worth a stay.

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