The Now-You-See-It Restaurant

The Now-You-See-It Restaurant

Food & Drink

The Now-You-See-It Restaurant

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Pop Up Restaurant(New York Times) John Fraser’s new restaurant is doomed. It may make a splash at the start, but by this time next year it will be over, done with, kaput.

At least if you take him at his word.

For his follow-up to Dovetail, an elegant success on the Upper West Side, Mr. Fraser has chosen a project with a death foretold. He signed a short-term lease for a space in SoHo whose landlord cannot promise that the building, likely to be demolished, will be around past July. In return he received a rent of about $9,000 a month, well below market rate.

He was also freed from many of the little and big concerns that can turn the opening of a restaurant into such a protracted odyssey and the running of it into such an expensive one.

Because he’s not fashioning a keeper, he can — and must — keep his investment low. He’s not paying for, or bothering with, a proper sign out front. The dozens of chairs, used, were bought on eBay for under $10 each, and if they’re not so durable, no sweat.

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