When Ginevra Iverson made these airy, sugared doughnut holes at (the now-shuttered) Restaurant Eloise in Sonoma County, California, she refused to send any imperfect ones into the dining room.

Any misshapen holes became snacks for the kitchen crew: “They got slathered with jam and devoured by whoever got to them first.”

Recipe excerpted from Desserts by the Editors of Food & Wine. Copyright © 2017 Oxmoor House. Reprinted with permission from Time Inc. Books, a division of Time Inc. New York, NY. All rights reserved.